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How to make compost for your garden


Composting is a biological process of decomposing organic solid wastes. It can be used to recycle organic material. The process involves decomposition of organic material into a humus-like material, referred to as compost, which is a good fertilizer source for plants.

 Composting benefits

  1. Compost improves soil texture, water holding capacity and fertility. Soil will gradually become fluffy and brown, an ideal home for healthy plants.

  2. Compost provides a good and balanced source of plant nutrition.

  3. Compost stimulates beneficial organisms, which help in converting soil nutrients into available form for plants.

  4. The microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins and natural antibiotics that are present in compost help in prevention of many harmful pathogens for your plants.

  5. Earthworms, millipedes and other soil microorganisms help in opening up passageways for air and water to reach your plant roots. 

  6. Compost reduces the need for chemical fertilizers.

  7. Composting helps in solid waste management and reduces methane emissions. 

5 elements of composting

Organic matter is converted into compost through the work of microorganisms and other soil elements. Composting requires the best possible environment for these beneficial organisms to do their work which faster the process of decomposition. If you do not provide the optimum environment, the decomposition process gets slower.

 

1. Carbon. Carbon-rich materials are the source of energy for microorganisms. The materials are mostly brown in colour. Examples are dry leaves, straw, garden soil etc.

 

2. Nitrogen. Nitrogen-rich materials provide the protein components that microorganisms require to grow and multiply. Examples are fresh grass clippings, over-ripe fruits and vegetables, kitchen scraps, freshly pulled garden weeds etc.

 

3. Water. Moisture is very important for the composting process to be carried out. Too much moisture will drown the microorganisms and insufficient moisture will dehydrate them. Maintain moisture in the compost like a squeezed wet sponge. Using an enclosed container or covering the compost pile will make the right moisture level.

 

4. Oxygen. Microorganisms require a lot of oxygen for an efficient composting process. When you first add the composting materials to the pit, there will probably be plenty of air between the layers of materials. But when the microorganisms start their work, they will start consuming oxygen. So proper aeration will help the microorganisms to work efficiently.

 

5. Temperature. Heat is a by-product of intense microbial activity. It indicates that the microorganisms are active on organic matter and converting it into finished compost.

 

Carbon to Nitrogen ratio (C: N ratio).

Microorganisms and other soil fauna work most efficiently with a suitable ratio of carbon-rich (brown) to nitrogen-rich (green) materials. It is approximately 25:1 (brown to green). Three parts brown and one part green materials works quite well. In practical terms, if you want to have an active compost pile, you should include lots of carbon-rich "brown" materials (such as straw, wood chips, dry leaves, paper etc.) and a lesser amount of nitrogen-rich "green" materials (such as grass clippings, freshly pulled weeds, or kitchen scraps).

 

If you have an excess of carbon-rich materials and not enough nitrogen-rich materials, your pile may take more time to decompose (there is not enough protein for those microbes). If your pile has an excess amount of nitrogen and not enough carbon, your pile also will decompose very slowly (not enough for the microbes to eat), and it will probably create a smell.

 

Turning of compost piles

  • The purpose of turning is to increase oxygen flow for the microorganisms and to blend un-decomposed materials into the centre of the pile.

  • After turning, the pile should heat up again, as long as there is still un-decomposed material to be broken down.

  • When the temperature stays pretty constant regardless of how much you turn the pile, it gives the sign of readiness of compost.

  • Turning also releases heat into the air. So it is not recommended for frequent turning in cold weather.

 

Other ways of aeration without the effort of turning:

  • Make sure there are air vents in the sides of your compost bin.

  • Put one or two perforated plastic pipes in the centre of your pile.

 

Composting methods

There are mainly two types of composting. One is below the soil and the other one is above the soil. Above the soil composting process is faster and easier as it exposes to more oxygen and aerobic bacteria for decomposition. 

 

1. Below the soil composting (Trench composting)

a) Digging a compost pit

  • The compost hole should be about 1 ft. deep. If you have a lot of compost material, you can dig a deeper pit, but avoid going deeper than about 3 ft. as important decomposing organisms cannot live beneath this depth.

  • If there is more composting material, you can make your pit longer or wider.

b) Fine chopping of compost materials

  • Underground composting happens at a much slower rate than above ground process. So you can speed up the composting process by chopping the materials into smaller pieces.

  • Kitchen scraps can be made into smaller pieces by chopping with a knife or pulverized in a blender or food processor.

  • Garden scraps can be broken down using a lawn-mower. The pieces should not be bigger than 2 to 3 in (5 to 8 cm) long, wide, and thick.

c) Add the organic materials to the compost pit

  • Dump your food scraps and garden waste into the hole.

  • Mix the materials together by a shovel so that the decomposition starts effectively.

  • It is important to make sure that the carbon-rich materials (such as paper and dried leaves) are mixed thoroughly with the nitrogen-rich materials (like vegetable scraps and fresh grass clippings).

·         

d) Maintaining the compost pit

  •  If your compost pit is not full, you can add more to it later. Cover the pit with a fine layer of soil or carbon-rich material, like dried leaves.

  • Whenever you add fresh compost materials, cover the top layer with soil or carbon-rich material.

  • Fill the pit until it is level with the surrounding soil.

  • Speed up the composting process by watering the pit and ensure proper moisture.

 

e) Outcome

  • The final compost material is prepared in 4-6 month.

  • So prepare 2-3 compost pits in different time intervals for the continuous supply of compost for your garden. 

  • You can raise plants above the compost pit.

2. Above the soil composting (Bin Composting)

 

  •  It is a suitable method of composting which requires less space and time.

  •  Use a composting bin for this composting process.

  •  Add the composting materials as described above. 

  •  Sprinkle Water on the compost bin in frequent time intervals.  

  •  If you are not seeing progress in the composting process then add more green materials and moist the compost pile.

  •  If it is smelly, add more brown materials to the compost pile and keep a good aeration.

  • This composting process may also be suitable for people staying in an apartment having less space for a garden.

How to reduce the odour of composting

a) The compost pile should be properly aerated

  • A healthy composting process needs plenty of oxygen. Otherwise, aerobic bacteria (those that need oxygen to metabolize the organic materials) cannot function, and decomposition will be driven by anaerobic bacteria, which produce foul-smelling gasses as byproducts of their metabolism.

  • To avail the oxygen content of your compost pile, make sure you are turning the materials regularly. This provides fresh oxygen into the deeper areas of the pile.

  • Do not saturate the compost pile with much water as there will be little room for air to flow.

  • Maintain proper moisture content in the pile that it should be too dry or wet.

 

b) Maintaining the ratio of nitrogen-rich and carbon-rich materials

 A compost pile having much nitrogen-rich materials will emit a smell similar to ammonia. This problem can be solved by adding more carbon-rich materials.

  • Nitrogen-rich materials are food scraps, fresh grass clippings, fresh leaves etc

  • Carbon-rich materials are dried leaves, cardboard and paper, sawdust, wood, straw, and corn cobs.

c) Keep your compost pile free of meats and dairy products 

There are some foods that should never be added to your compost pile, as they will emit foul odours. These foods include meats, bones, dairy, and fats etc.

 

Qualities of a fine compost material.

  •  It smells earthy.

  • There is no sign of the original waste.

  • It is dark brown in colour.

  • It has a nice texture.

 

Conclusion

Composting is a nice process of waste management. It converts organic waste to a good source of plant nutrients. It reduces environmental pollution. Compost helps in maintaining proper soil nutrition, soil health and beneficial soil microorganisms.

If the article gives you a little knowledge about composting, Please mention your valuable views here and share the article. Thank you for reading.

 






How To Correct Acidic, Alkaline And Saline Soils


Soil Amendments

Soil amendments are organic or inorganic matter added to the soil to improve texture, soil physic-chemical properties like water retention, drainage, aeration, PH balance, nutrition availability and productivity.

 

Soil  PH and its characteristics

 

  • The availability of plant nutrients is optimum within the soil PH range 6.5 to 7.5.
  • Below PH 5.5 soils are referred to be acid soils and above PH  8.5 soils are known as alkaline/alkali soils.
  • Accumulation of salts in soil also adversely affects the plant growth and nutrition. It is called soil salinity.

soil reactions

 

  • Phosphate applied through fertilizer gets converted into insoluble form as iron and aluminium phosphates in acid soils.
  • Solubility of a number of micro nutrients is increased under acidic soil conditions and they may be toxic to plants.
  • With high PH (Alkaline Soil) many plant nutrients become unavailable due to reversion into insoluble forms.

 

NOTES

 

  • In humid regions soils are generally acidic in reaction.
  • Soil salinity and alkalinity are the problems of arid regions.
  • Acid soils are to be corrected by Liming, alkaline soils are to be corrected by gypsum.
  • Rice has good tolerance to acidity since flooding of rice fields raises the PH to almost neutrality.

 

Correcting soil acidity

 

  • Soil acidity results from loss of bases like calcium and magnesium. Soil acidity is reduced by restoring the lost calcium and magnesium by applying lime to the soil. 

 

  • Soils with low clay content will require less lime. Soil with high clay content and soil with high organic matter content need more lime.

 

  • Excess doses of liming material should be avoided, as over liming affects availability of nutrients like iron, manganese, zinc, potassium, magnesium.

 

Method and time of Lime Application

 

  • Liming material are to be broadcasted at least a month before sowing. 
  • Nitrogenous and water soluble phosphatic fertilizers should not mix with it, nor to be applied at the same time or immediately after lime application, as it would result in ammonia being released and lost to the atmosphere and availability of phosphate also being reduced.

 

Reclamation of saline and Alkaline soils

1) Saline soils

  • In this type of soil exchangeable sodium percentage is less than 15 and soil reaction below  PH 8.5. 
  • Crops growing on saline soils usually have barren patches, foliage(leaf) has a deep green to deep blue colour and crop yields are low.

 

Reclamation of saline soils

  •  By applying rain or irrigation water for leaching out injurious salts to a safe limit in the soil.
  • By deep ploughing to break the pan followed by irrigation and drainage.

 

2) Alkaline Soils

  • In these types of soils the percentage of exchangeable sodium is greater than 15 and the soil PH is usually in the range of 8.5 to 10.5. 
  • Poor aeration and high sodium content creates difficulty in crop growth.

 

Reclamation of Alkaline soils

 

  • alkaline soils are to be corrected by gypsum.
  • Press mud, a byproduct from sugar factories, acts as a good reclamative material.
  • Aluminium Sulphate,  Sulphur  also act as a good reclamative material.
  • By adding organic materials such as farm yard manure, crop residues, green manuring crops.
  • By deep ploughing  followed by leaching with irrigation water and drainage.


*Apply the above soil amendments after soil testing results and local agriculture officer’s guidance.

 

Conclusion 

Soil amendments will help in maintaining  PH balance in soil and it helps in increasing crop productivity by better nutrient mobility in soil and available the nutrients to plants.

Please give your valuable comments and share the article. Thank you.

 












How To Collect Soil Samples for Soil Testing




Soil Testing

Soil testing is the method of collecting soil samples, which is a true representative of that area, and testing that sample in a laboratory for soil quality and nutrition availability of that area.
After getting soil test report of our field we can go for application of different types fertilizers with proper dosage.


Points to be considered for soil sample collection.

  1. Collect the soil sample during no crop period.
  2. In the standing crop, collect samples between rows.
  3. Separate soil samples to be collected from fields that differ in colour, slope, drainage, soil management practices like liming, gypsum application, fertilization, cropping system etc.
  4. Avoid sampling near wet spots, areas near main bund, trees, manure heaps and irrigation channels.
  5. Collect Soil samples up to 15 cm depth for shallow rooted crops and 30 cm depth for deep rooted crops and for trees collect soil profile as a sample.
  6. a soil sample should be collected in presence of the farm owner who knows the farm better. 


Guidelines for sampling depth

S.No.
Crop
Soil sampling depth
Inches
cm
1
Grasses and grasslands
2
5
2
Rice, finger millet, groundnut, pearl millet, small millets etc.(shallow rooted crops)
6
15
3
Cotton, sugarcane, banana, tapioca, vegetables etc. (deep rooted crops)
9
22
4
Perennial crops, plantations and orchard crops
Three soil samples at 12, 24 and  36 inches
Three soil samples at 30, 60 and 90 cm



HOW TO COLLECT SOIL SAMPLES:

Materials required.

a) Spade (Fabda)/ Khurpi / Auger/Soil Probe
b) Sampling bag
c) Plastic bucket
d) Plastic Mat


PROCEDURE
  1. Divide the field into zig-zag manner, where samples are to be collected.
  2. Remove the surface litter(unwanted materials) at the sampling spot.
  3. Drive the auger or soil probe to a depth of 15 cm and draw the soil sample.
  4. If an auger/probe is not available, make a ‘V’ shaped cut to a depth of 15 cm in the sampling spot using spade.
  5. Cut and take a thick slice of soil (1 inch slice) from one side of the ‘V’ cut from top to bottom and place in a clear container. Collect at least 15-20 soil samples.
  6. Mix the samples collected  thoroughly in the container and remove the foreign materials like roots, stones, gravels etc. 
  7. Quartering:-It is a procedure to reduce the soil sample collected to about half to one kilogram. Divide the mixed sample into 4 equal parts in a plastic mat. Remove two opposite quarters and mix the remaining two quarters, repeat the procedure until half to  one kilogram sample collected.
  8.  Dry the sample in shade (Do not dry under sun) for an hour. Then collect the soil sample in   a clean polythene bag.
  9.  Label the bag with some information like name of the farmer, location of the farm, survey number,  previous crop grown, present crop, crop to be grown in the next season, date of collection, name of the sampler etc.
  10. Give the sample to the nearest soil testing laboratory and after testing get a soil health card.

Soil Health Card

Soil health card (SHC) is a printed report that a farmer will be handed over to assess/analyse the current status of his field soil health.

12 parameters are analysed in the SHC like

N, P, K (Macronutrients)
S (Secondary Nutrients)
Zn, Fe, Cu, Mn, Bo (Micronutrients)

PH, EC, Organic Carbon (Physical parameters)

Conclusion

Soil testing should be done to analyse the soil health as it minimizes the input cost to farmers and maintain a good soil and environmental health for our future generation.


USEFUL LINKS


1) Locate Soil testing laboratory near you (INDIA)

https://soilhealth.dac.gov.in/PublicReports/STL

2) Fertiliser dose calculation

https://soilhealth.dac.gov.in/calculator/calculator



If the article is helpful, Please give your views. Thank you.






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This site is created and managed by Mr. Soubhagya Pradhan, a graduate in Agriculture. He is serving the farming community by sharing his farm related knowledge, skills and experiences. He takes initiative to reach more with the farming community by the help of this blog and share information on Agriculture and allied sectors.
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